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SPARK
PLUGS
This Article is prompted by
the latest issue of Old
Bike Mart and what I found to be a confusing article by Stan Dibben who
has written a book “Spark Plugging the Classics”.
It reminds us that older
systems produce 8,000 to 12,000 volts, suggests newer type plugs may be
better than original specification and then says they need 15,000 volts.
Surely a recipe for problems if you fit a modern plug? Stan says a modern
plug should be better than the old types – if not suspect the voltage
supply.
What is clear is that the
greater the surface area of the electrodes – the greater the current
needed to spark. It is also obvious that the greater the electrode gap –
the more current is needed for a spark to jump it. Modern plugs may come
gapped at 32 thou or 0.8mm whereas older machines need 25 thou and sometimes
a little less.
So check the gap of any new
plug you fit. Also compare the new plug with older ones. If the electrodes
are wider giving a greater surface area - then it will test your system for
every spark. A plug with a smaller diameter centre electrode will perform
better than one with a “fat” electrode if low voltage is the issue.
I am far from sure how the
plugs with multiple electrodes sparking to the centre, fit this discussion
on optimum plugs but I have used them in the past hoping for some improved
performance. I have not noticed any difference so tend to go for the
cheapest original specification plugs. Usually NGK B7HS has suited my riding
style.
What is important is
maximising the current to the plug so if I have any doubts I replace the
plug lead and plug cap. I always use old fashioned copper core plug leads
and again usually NGK plastic caps or a rubber cap on “off road” bikes.
For originality some CZ JAWAs had
PAL
metal plug caps. Importers Skoda used to uncrate the new bikes, run them up
on the original Czech plugs and caps and then replace the Czech parts.
Needless to say the coil
must be operating correctly – they can begin to breakdown over time.
Current to the coil and any earthing in the system must be good too. So
clean the plug hole with some cloth to remove any oily muck before fitting
the new plug. Periodically I spray everything with WD40.
Some new plugs do not work
or may fail after a few yards running. It is always prudent to try your new
plugs before setting off or putting them aside as your spares. Make sure you
have more than one spare with you.
Do you chuck old plugs in
the toolbox thinking you might use them again? Why? There was a reason you
replaced them........... so chuck them out. You will have a suitable tested
spare available anyway – won’t you..................
The perfect plug in your
bike will have a grey to brown insulator and show slight electrode wear on
the centre electrode - which becomes rounded as the edges are eroded by
sparks.
Reminder
JAWA 350, CZ 125/175/250 is
not a model. Those numbers are the cubic capacity or cc. Any parts supplier
needs the model number and year. Pete Edwards
Download
this guide in colour
(221KB)
|
VERY
HOT
(for
extreme cold)
|
HOT
(for
winter) |
NORMAL
(medium
temperatures)
|
COLD
(for
summer)
|
| PAL |
PAL |
PAL |
PAL |
| - |
14-7 |
14-8 |
14-9 |
|
N5
|
N7
|
N8 |
N9 |
| CHAMPION |
CHAMPION |
CHAMPION |
CHAMPION |
| L10 |
H8 |
L5 |
L9 |
|
L90
|
H88 |
L7 |
L78 |
|
L88A
|
L9J
|
L82 |
L81 |
| - |
L7 |
L85 |
L82YC |
| - |
L85 |
L87Y |
- |
| - |
L86 |
- |
- |
| - |
L92Y |
- |
- |
| BOSCH |
BOSCH |
BOSCH |
BOSCH |
| - |
W175Ti |
W190 |
W248Ti |
| - |
W150 |
M115 |
W260Ti |
| NGK |
NGK |
NGK |
NGK |
| B4H |
B7H |
B7HZ |
B8H |
| B5HS |
B6HS |
B7HC |
B8HC |
| - |
- |
B7HS |
B8HS
|
| - |
- |
- |
B8HV |
| MOTORCRAFT |
MOTORCRAFT |
MOTORCRAFT |
MOTORCRAFT |
| - |
AE3 |
AE2 |
AE2 |
| SUREFIRE |
SUREFIRE |
SUREFIRE |
SUREFIRE |
| - |
- |
GSP4266 |
- |
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Chris Baddiley / JAWA CZ Owners Club
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Updated: 02 October 2011 - Privacy
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